When you think of Panerai, certain images rise to the surface. That robust cushion-cased shape. The rugged crown-protecting guard. A dial that feels like it radiates more than it glows in the dark. After the images settle, a word normally follows shortly after—Luminor.
If you didn’t already know, 2025 is the year of the Luminor for Panerai—the collection that not only put the brand on the map, but onto the wrists of paneristi around the globe, becoming almost a north star for them.
Just like its watches, Panerai’s identity is rigid and unbending—more so than most, maybe more so than any. But when a brand’s DNA is coiled so tightly around a design philosophy born in the 1940s, what space is left for movement and versatility? For the push and pull, the ebb and flow of trends?
To probe deeper, we talked to Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai’s Chief Marketing Officer, to discuss all things Luminor, the careful dance between the past and present, and what it is, exactly, about that hulking silhouette that keeps drawing people back, time and time again.
What does the Luminor mean to the brand?
The Luminor is more than a cornerstone of our offer: it is the identity of Panerai in watch form.
While embodying the brand’s historical purpose as a tool watchmaker for the Italian Navy, our Luminor Collection has continued to evolve over the years with technical and design innovations. Still, its functional dial design, distinct cushion shape, and patented crown-protecting device have made it instantly recognisable for generations.
In short, it represents Panerai’s ability to stay rooted in authenticity while pushing forward at its finest.
From supplying watches to the Italian Navy to becoming a luxury icon, the Luminor has had quite a journey. Is keeping its military roots something Panerai wishes to remain part of the narrative in the luxury space?
Panerai’s transformation from a military supplier of high-precision instruments to a coveted name in the luxury watchmaking industry is a testament to the brand’s unique appeal and unmatched heritage.
Its legendary history, driven by truly resonating with a discerning niche of watch connoisseurs, drove this remarkable but natural evolution, consistently reflecting the functional design ethos of Panerai’s early instruments, engineered for extreme conditions.
In this sense, our storytelling will always celebrate this heritage, as it forms the very DNA of each new release, while pushing the boundaries of performance and innovation.
Panerai’s rise to mainstream popularity was, in part, largely due to its association with action films in the ’90s. Do you see the brand returning to the cinematic world anytime soon?
While we do not rely on film placements for awareness today, we remain open to organic collaborations that align with our values — particularly when the narrative or character reflects themes of courage, precision, or exploration.
How do you balance heritage storytelling with the demands of a younger, trend-conscious audience?
The key is relevance without compromise. Younger audiences crave authenticity and connection, and Panerai’s heritage provides that in abundance.
Moreover, the integration of contemporary elements, such as metal bracelets within iconic collections like the Luminor Marina, has the potential to resonate with a younger and more diverse demographic, thereby broadening the brand’s market reach while staying true to its bold, functional design.
The new Luminor Marina PAM03323 exemplifies this, as it reimagines an emblematic model with the introduction of a V-shaped bracelet design, offering a fresh perspective on timeless elegance. The new Panerai metal bracelet in a progressive V-shape design not only tapers from the case to the buckle, offering a lighter feel for everyday wear, but it also features, for the very first time, the new Quick Length Adjustment feature, allowing the bracelet to extend by 2mm on each side while maintaining perfect balance on the wrist.
All our novelties, moreover, are typified by the PAM Click Release System™ for effortless strap changes, allowing extreme versatility while privileging functionality.
The Collection also embraces a modern spirit through technical refinements and colour variations that can appeal to younger, trend-conscious audiences. The Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 showcases an olive-green sun-brushed dial—a nod to the brand’s historic military connection—while staging Panerai’s expertise in high-tech materials.
All in all, it is about taking the DNA that has always defined us and expressing it in ways that resonate with collectors of tomorrow.
The Panerai Luminor Due collection features the smallest watches in your repertoire, at 38mm. What’s the smallest Panerai is willing to go?
All our watches embody Panerai’s core identity: purpose-built, highly legible instruments with a strong wrist presence. Maintaining the original functional aesthetic is paramount to staying true to our DNA.
We should not forget that our watches were initially designed for superior legibility in adverse conditions, including night dives, which is why we have always favoured (and will always favour!) generous dimensions.
Do you feel the pressure from the market to go even smaller?
While we are always attentive to market trends, we don’t feel pressured to reduce the size of our watches. Panerai’s dimensions are not arbitrary; they are intrinsically linked to our history as a supplier of highly legible instruments for the Italian Navy.
This commitment to legibility and wrist presence has become a defining characteristic of the brand and a key reason why Panerai is so highly regarded by watch enthusiasts. Our dimensions are part of our DNA, and we believe they are essential to the Panerai experience.
How do you respond to critics who argue that smaller Luminor models dilute the brand’s bold, masculine identity?
Well… while 38mm represents the “smallest” size in our portfolio, it’s important to remember that this is still considered a standard men’s size for most brands!
Do you see the trend swinging back in favour of larger watches in the future?
Although wristwatch trends are cyclical, it is important to highlight that we have never stopped observing a steady demand for larger models, especially among collectors who value substance, legibility, and functionality in their timepieces.
What is it about large watches do you think appeals to people?
Larger watches carry a sense of presence and confidence. They’re legible, functional, and often speak to a lifestyle of performance and adventure.
For many Panerai clients, the watch becomes a symbol of self-expression—something that reflects not only taste, but also purpose and identity. There’s also the historical link: Panerai’s original instruments were large because they had to be used by Italian Navy divers in high-stakes environments.
What was Panerai aiming to achieve with the new Luminor Marina novelties unveiled at Watches and Wonders?
With the new Luminor Marina novelties, our aim was to reinforce everything the Luminor stands for — robustness, technical precision, and unmistakable character—while introducing refinements that meet modern expectations.
We’ve upgraded the water resistance to 500 metres, integrated the new P.980 calibre with stop-seconds and enhanced shock resistance, and introduced lighter case constructions including titanium.
It’s about improving real-world functionality without losing the bold identity that makes the Luminor Marina emblematic.
This article was first seen on ESQUIRE SG.
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